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Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: N2TRKYS] #1357459
05/27/15 05:09 AM
05/27/15 05:09 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Originally Posted By: N2TRKYS
Why would you want to kill already established clover?


You’re not really killing it if you keep your gly rate light….you’re just stunting it for a moment to give your new seedlings a chance to establish before the clover returns. Were talking about in fields of thick established clover. This is where the flexibility of this method comes into play though. You can really choose to do whatever you want from that point. If I had a field that would grow a nice crop of durana all summer mixed with a smattering of weeds and grass then I might be apt to do very little during the summer. Other folks may want to add some things to the mix and grow a summer crop. In that situation the clover may need to be suppressed for a moment depending on the conditions. In the book I posted a link to awhile back….the Japanese farmer in the book flooded his field for a week before spring planting in order to weaken his white clover and allow the other plants to establish. This is not really an option for the majority of us so alternative methods will have to be used. Some of you who see flooding in your fields may be able to do it just like the Japanese farmer and plant right after the floods. Again though, these are just options that folks may or may not choose to do.

Last edited by CNC; 05/27/15 05:10 AM.

“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: RiverWood] #1357466
05/27/15 05:27 AM
05/27/15 05:27 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,685
West Florida
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Originally Posted By: RiverWood
Just got back from a road trip to Iowa. Past millions of acres of farmlands being planted in Iowa, Nebraska, Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi, and Alabama. Nearly 100% of farmers who I saw planting - and there were literally thousands of them on my ten day trip - were tilling the soil in some way. Verticle tillage, deep plowing, minimal tillage, etc. These are multi-million dollar operations that are feeding the entire world. Didn't see a single bush hog In a field or a single farmer using the mow & throw method. Maybe if CNC could just get his message to them
Actually there is a movement back to this type of farming in the midwest where moisture can be a problem (not this year). It is a similar method in which they sow a cover crop then roll it down as a thatch barrier once it matures. Then they use equipment specifically designed to only disturb the soil where the seed is being planted. Basically a much larger than normal no till planter. The results so far have been, higher yeilds, more drought tolerance, less weed competition, and more profit. So don't make the mistake of believing just becuase something has been done a certain way for years that it's the best method. And as this board proves many times over, people are very reluctant to change, especially when it's their livelyhood. The farmers using traditional methods are making a living and see no need to change. But other farmers who are a little more open minded are willing to trial new methods and processes to see if there is something better out there. And many are finding out there is actually a better way. The healthiest soil is definetly soil that is undesturbed, allowing high populations of microbial activity. When soil is disturbed it kills much of the microb popluation, which hinders the soil break down process as it was designed to be. It also causes the soil to become hard and crusty on the surface, which affects water absorption, and causes much more water run off. Soil is kind of like a crack addict, once your hooked it's hard to go back to normal. Once traditional farming techniques are imployed and the soil becomes dead with microbial activity, you have to keep pouring the fertilizers and other chemicals to the crop in order to have a decent yeild.

Last edited by westflgator; 05/27/15 05:30 AM.
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357468
05/27/15 05:36 AM
05/27/15 05:36 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 15,122
Tuscaloosa Co.
N
N2TRKYS Offline
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N
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Tuscaloosa Co.
Originally Posted By: CNC
Originally Posted By: N2TRKYS
Why would you want to kill already established clover?


You’re not really killing it if you keep your gly rate light….you’re just stunting it for a moment to give your new seedlings a chance to establish before the clover returns. Were talking about in fields of thick established clover. This is where the flexibility of this method comes into play though. You can really choose to do whatever you want from that point. If I had a field that would grow a nice crop of durana all summer mixed with a smattering of weeds and grass then I might be apt to do very little during the summer. Other folks may want to add some things to the mix and grow a summer crop. In that situation the clover may need to be suppressed for a moment depending on the conditions. In the book I posted a link to awhile back….the Japanese farmer in the book flooded his field for a week before spring planting in order to weaken his white clover and allow the other plants to establish. This is not really an option for the majority of us so alternative methods will have to be used. Some of you who see flooding in your fields may be able to do it just like the Japanese farmer and plant right after the floods. Again though, these are just options that folks may or may not choose to do.



What rate are you mixing your gly for these results? Are you traveling at a higher rate of speed when spraying?


83% of all statistics are made up.

Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: westflgator] #1357487
05/27/15 06:18 AM
05/27/15 06:18 AM
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 1,787
Cullman
Z
Zkd22 Offline
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Cullman
Originally Posted By: westflgator
Originally Posted By: RiverWood
Just got back from a road trip to Iowa. Past millions of acres of farmlands being planted in Iowa, Nebraska, Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi, and Alabama. Nearly 100% of farmers who I saw planting - and there were literally thousands of them on my ten day trip - were tilling the soil in some way. Verticle tillage, deep plowing, minimal tillage, etc. These are multi-million dollar operations that are feeding the entire world. Didn't see a single bush hog In a field or a single farmer using the mow & throw method. Maybe if CNC could just get his message to them
Actually there is a movement back to this type of farming in the midwest where moisture can be a problem (not this year). It is a similar method in which they sow a cover crop then roll it down as a thatch barrier once it matures. Then they use equipment specifically designed to only disturb the soil where the seed is being planted. Basically a much larger than normal no till planter. The results so far have been, higher yeilds, more drought tolerance, less weed competition, and more profit. So don't make the mistake of believing just becuase something has been done a certain way for years that it's the best method. And as this board proves many times over, people are very reluctant to change, especially when it's their livelyhood. The farmers using traditional methods are making a living and see no need to change. But other farmers who are a little more open minded are willing to trial new methods and processes to see if there is something better out there. And many are finding out there is actually a better way. The healthiest soil is definetly soil that is undesturbed, allowing high populations of microbial activity. When soil is disturbed it kills much of the microb popluation, which hinders the soil break down process as it was designed to be. It also causes the soil to become hard and crusty on the surface, which affects water absorption, and causes much more water run off. Soil is kind of like a crack addict, once your hooked it's hard to go back to normal. Once traditional farming techniques are imployed and the soil becomes dead with microbial activity, you have to keep pouring the fertilizers and other chemicals to the crop in order to have a decent yeild.


Strip till sounds like what you are describing. Some peoples geographical location decides their farming options for them. In the delta everything gets hipped up due to the low ground and the favored economics of furrow irrigating with poly pipe vs pivot irrigation. Farmers over there are very modern and utd but have limited options. I don't sway one way or the other. If throw and mow works for you great and if you like to break ground hook up the disc. I'm just saying from a farming standpoint some guys decisions are made for them.

Last edited by Zkd22; 05/27/15 06:19 AM.
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: N2TRKYS] #1357497
05/27/15 06:47 AM
05/27/15 06:47 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Awbarn, AL
Originally Posted By: N2TRKYS
What rate are you mixing your gly for these results? Are you traveling at a higher rate of speed when spraying?


I haven’t experimented with it yet but I’ve seen numerous other folks report that they’ve had clover come back after spraying it. It a pretty tough plant. If I were going to test it I would probably try something like ˝ quart per acre.


“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: westflgator] #1357499
05/27/15 06:48 AM
05/27/15 06:48 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Awbarn, AL
Originally Posted By: westflgator
Originally Posted By: RiverWood
Just got back from a road trip to Iowa. Past millions of acres of farmlands being planted in Iowa, Nebraska, Arkansas, Tennessee, Mississippi, and Alabama. Nearly 100% of farmers who I saw planting - and there were literally thousands of them on my ten day trip - were tilling the soil in some way. Verticle tillage, deep plowing, minimal tillage, etc. These are multi-million dollar operations that are feeding the entire world. Didn't see a single bush hog In a field or a single farmer using the mow & throw method. Maybe if CNC could just get his message to them
Actually there is a movement back to this type of farming in the midwest where moisture can be a problem (not this year). It is a similar method in which they sow a cover crop then roll it down as a thatch barrier once it matures. Then they use equipment specifically designed to only disturb the soil where the seed is being planted. Basically a much larger than normal no till planter. The results so far have been, higher yeilds, more drought tolerance, less weed competition, and more profit. So don't make the mistake of believing just becuase something has been done a certain way for years that it's the best method. And as this board proves many times over, people are very reluctant to change, especially when it's their livelyhood. The farmers using traditional methods are making a living and see no need to change. But other farmers who are a little more open minded are willing to trial new methods and processes to see if there is something better out there. And many are finding out there is actually a better way. The healthiest soil is definetly soil that is undesturbed, allowing high populations of microbial activity. When soil is disturbed it kills much of the microb popluation, which hinders the soil break down process as it was designed to be. It also causes the soil to become hard and crusty on the surface, which affects water absorption, and causes much more water run off. Soil is kind of like a crack addict, once your hooked it's hard to go back to normal. Once traditional farming techniques are imployed and the soil becomes dead with microbial activity, you have to keep pouring the fertilizers and other chemicals to the crop in order to have a decent yeild.


Good post....good discussion. thumbup


“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357504
05/27/15 07:07 AM
05/27/15 07:07 AM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 15,122
Tuscaloosa Co.
N
N2TRKYS Offline
Old Mossy Horns
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Tuscaloosa Co.
Originally Posted By: CNC
Originally Posted By: N2TRKYS
What rate are you mixing your gly for these results? Are you traveling at a higher rate of speed when spraying?


I haven’t experimented with it yet but I’ve seen numerous other folks report that they’ve had clover come back after spraying it. It a pretty tough plant. If I were going to test it I would probably try something like ˝ quart per acre.


What summer plantings do you find more beneficial to the wildlife than established clover?


83% of all statistics are made up.

Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: N2TRKYS] #1357521
05/27/15 07:27 AM
05/27/15 07:27 AM
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Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Originally Posted By: N2TRKYS
What summer plantings do you find more beneficial to the wildlife than established clover?


Corn!!!……..JK laugh

In my opinion clover is the single best plant you can grow during the summer if you have good soil moisture. When I’m done experimenting here in my test field….all I plan on doing in the future is growing clover and “weeds” during the summer. All of that other stuff like sunn hemp, cowpeas, etc… is really not necessary for most folks nor will it really change much when you’re talking about growing ˝ acre of it or something similar. Folks love to plant summer plots though so I’m going to play with a few options before going plain Jane with it. Once more folks like bambam and turkey neck begin to have success using this method, then folks will begin using their own variations of it and it won’t be as important that I show the different possibilities with my test plot. Right now I’m just trying to show what all can be done.

Last edited by CNC; 05/27/15 07:27 AM.

“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357523
05/27/15 07:31 AM
05/27/15 07:31 AM
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,911
huntin the big lease
T
Turkeymaster Offline
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huntin the big lease
ok CNC, I haven't been to my place since mothers day, at that time there were no weeds in my fields to speak of. I plant on planting roughly 5 to 6 acres of IC peas this weekend with the throw and mow method. I have not sprayed a single field, nor do I know if there are any weeds to speak of. Can I still make this happen?


"All is fair in love, War and Turkey Hunting"
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: Turkeymaster] #1357543
05/27/15 08:21 AM
05/27/15 08:21 AM
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Awbarn, AL
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Awbarn, AL
Originally Posted By: Turkeymaster
ok CNC, I haven't been to my place since mothers day, at that time there were no weeds in my fields to speak of. I plant on planting roughly 5 to 6 acres of IC peas this weekend with the throw and mow method. I have not sprayed a single field, nor do I know if there are any weeds to speak of. Can I still make this happen?


A lot of that will be dependant on the condition of last year’s fall crop. IF you had a really thick stand of say rye, clover, vetch….then it would likely still be shading out the understory and suppressing weeds. However, if your fall mix is thin and allowing sunlight to the ground then its highly likely that you already have abundant weeds establishing themselves and growing. To be safe I would probably expect to see weeds coming in after this rain.

You’ve got a couple options……Peas will grow in amongst other plants. Most people plant other plant species along with them anyways in order to give them something to vine on. If your weed encroachment is minimal then you could just go with it as is and allow your “weeds” to be those other plants. Its not going to look like a traditional clean planting but it will most likely still be just as effective. Just keep in mind that in the end our main goal is to grow forage in an opening for goats….not to put pictures on the cover of Farmer’s Digest.

The other option would be to throw, mow, and then spray. Most people are going to say not to mow and spray….and I agree its not optimal…..but it will still get a pretty good kill anyways. Most of the time between the cut stalk and the remaining bits of foliage…enough poison is absorbed to get a kill on most things.

If your planting peas then try to be sure you have enough thatch to mow down that’s its going to give you a good covering over the soil. Play around with your mowing height and RPM speed so that you get a nice even coverage and not wind rows in your tire tracks.


“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357584
05/27/15 09:29 AM
05/27/15 09:29 AM
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 2,685
West Florida
westflgator Offline
10 point
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Forgive me if this link has already been posted (too many posts to read them all) but here is a real good discussion on the matter. It really breaks down the advantages of using cover crops and no till systems to better enhance and utilize the natural process taking place in the soil. In other words, letting the microbes in the soil do most of the work. I know this is not necessarily "throw N go" but it's untilizing the same principles only in a larger commercial operation setting, which requires the main crop to be planted with no till planters for more accurate planting rates, and costs controls etc.

Note: It's a long clip but at 20:20 in you will see a side by side comparison of tradition methods vs no till with no irrigation other than rain fall. Pretty impressive...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWXCLVCJWTU

Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: westflgator] #1357693
05/27/15 12:25 PM
05/27/15 12:25 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Originally Posted By: westflgator
Forgive me if this link has already been posted (too many posts to read them all) but here is a real good discussion on the matter. It really breaks down the advantages of using cover crops and no till systems to better enhance and utilize the natural process taking place in the soil. In other words, letting the microbes in the soil do most of the work. I know this is not necessarily "throw N go" but it's untilizing the same principles only in a larger commercial operation setting, which requires the main crop to be planted with no till planters for more accurate planting rates, and costs controls etc.

Note: It's a long clip but at 20:20 in you will see a side by side comparison of tradition methods vs no till with no irrigation other than rain fall. Pretty impressive...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nWXCLVCJWTU


That's a great video that anyone who is interested in trying this method should definitely take the time to watch. It's actually one of the videos that originally sparked my interest to try a different way.


“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357782
05/27/15 02:36 PM
05/27/15 02:36 PM
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38,489
N. Bama
257wbymag Offline
Boo Boo Head
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N. Bama
CNC it's raining so hard in N Bama I even think mow and throw would erode right now. We've had 3" in 2 hrs now.


Quietly killing turkeys where youre not!!!
My tank full of give a fraks been runnin on empty
I'm the paterfamilias
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357834
05/27/15 03:37 PM
05/27/15 03:37 PM
Joined: Mar 2013
Posts: 14,972
Clanton
Turkey_neck Offline
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Booner
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Clanton
Yea it's rained like hell here for 2 1/2 hrs.


Would walk over a naked woman to get to a gobblin turkey!
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1357876
05/27/15 04:16 PM
05/27/15 04:16 PM
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Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Awbarn, AL
A thatch cover over the soil helps slow the water down but good water infiltration really depends on good soil structure….. which takes some time. You need the soil to form aggregates and create pore space between those aggregates……which allows water to then infiltrate through those pore spaces and down into the soil. The presence of worms and worm tunnels also greatly improve water infiltration as well as tunnels left behind by plants like diakon radishes. Keeping the structure intact is important in times like these.



“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1358100
05/28/15 04:27 AM
05/28/15 04:27 AM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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(Krrrr!!) 4…….



3……….



2…………



“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1358375
05/28/15 11:48 AM
05/28/15 11:48 AM
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,462
South Alabama
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bambam32 Offline
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South Alabama
CNC,

What is the broad leaf plant in your last picture?

Last edited by bambam32; 05/28/15 11:50 AM.
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: bambam32] #1358406
05/28/15 12:37 PM
05/28/15 12:37 PM
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 25,285
Awbarn, AL
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Awbarn, AL
Originally Posted By: bambam32
CNC,

What is the broad leaf plant in your last picture?


Those are turnips. I didn’t really think they would come in quite that thick. A few weeks ago I threw out a couple lbs per acre to fill in some areas that were “leave rows” last fall. The leave rows were where I left last summer’s milo, EW, etc. standing and didn’t mow. Some of the leave rows were so thick that my fall mix didn’t establish well underneath it. Fast forward to this spring….those areas left gaps in the rye et al…… I threw out those turnips to fill those gaps and any other thin areas instead of just allowing weeds to do so. My original plan was for them to get mowed when I planted my other stuff. Due to the dry spell we went through…they just sat there like they were frozen in time at only a few inches tall for a couple weeks. Well, now that they have plenty of sunlight and rain….they’ve exploded. It didn’t work out like I wanted but its no big deal really. There’s still a lot of room in the field for the other plants to establish. It’ll end up being like a big salad mix filled with numerous species of plants.

Last edited by CNC; 05/28/15 12:38 PM.

“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: CNC] #1358489
05/28/15 02:46 PM
05/28/15 02:46 PM
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Posts: 14,972
Clanton
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Clanton
I don't know bout y'all but I'm ready for a few days of good sun and no rain. My fields are needing a boost of no rain.


Would walk over a naked woman to get to a gobblin turkey!
Re: Throw n' Mow Tutorial [Re: Turkey_neck] #1358528
05/28/15 03:26 PM
05/28/15 03:26 PM
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Awbarn, AL
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Originally Posted By: Turkey_neck
I don't know bout y'all but I'm ready for a few days of good sun and no rain. My fields are needing a boost of no rain.


I've gotten a chit load of rain this afternoon. It's been pouring now for a couple hours. Areas of yellow and red on the radar have just been sitting right over me barely moving.


“Buy the ticket, take the ride...And if it occasionally gets a little heavier than what you had in mind….well, maybe chalk it up to forced consciousness expansion…..Tune in, freak out, get beaten”....Hunter S. Thompson
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