Taking a poll of you fellas before I buy new heads...

Do you prefer mechanicals or fixed, and which one and why?

I've shot Muzzy 3-Blade 100gr all but one year of my hunting life. They aren't broke, so I don't really know why I want to fix em, I guess I'm just seeking to "upgrade" if that can be done.

Fixed; if you wanted to try something diff but similar, get 3 Toxic's & try 'em out... I like the blood trails I get out of Toxic's vs 3-blade Muzzy's myself... Honestly, tho, I wouldn't fix what's not broken...

I was a hold out on mechanicals for years. I never liked them because of durability issues and the retaining mechanisms (o-rings, rubberbands and clips). After hunting with someone that still shot the old school Gators and seeing for myself the advantages of having the 2" cut, I started looking around. I settled on the NAP Killzones because they have an internal clip that doesn't need to be replaced every time it's shot. I've taken 5 with them and they have performed well. Another head I'm going to try out is the NAP Slingblade. It's like an updated Gator. One of the advantages it has over the Killzone is the blades free float. I can't get the local deer to cooperate so I can test one out though.

fixedeverydamntime......


I shoot 200gr STOS and 180gr German Kenitics Silverflames. The Silverflames are by a mile lead the best broadhead ever made. They will remain razor sharp far longer than any other head made.

Fixed all the way. Slick Trick Magnums or QAD exodus. Tried out the slick trick razor tricks this year and they did the job as well. Both heads fly just like field points. Plan on trying the Magnus Stinger buzzcut next year. Any of these will treat you right.

Fixed

fixed for this guy

I used Thunderheads for years. This year I tried the NAP Killzones. I shot a doe at 20 yards hard quartering away. The arrow passed thru about 6 or 8 inches. I didn't like the fact at 20 yards I didn't get a full pass thru. So now I am trying out the Ramcats. My son killed a doe a few weeks ago, hard quartering away shot and he got a complete passthru. I like the 2 inch cut, but I like my chances with fixed blade better. If the doe I shot had been a big buck, I'm not sure I would have recovered him. Maybe maybe not. But I feel the fixed blades get way more penetration than the mechanicals. Just my opinion.

I am a fan of fixed. I shot Muzzy for years and I switched to Ram Cats last year and love them. They fly just like field points, no difference, and they do DAMAGE. The only drawback is you have to make sure they will fit your quiver. Ram Cat makes a quiver but it weighs a ton.

Good stuff fellas.

Thunderhead 100s

I've shot most every head on the market and there are some very good heads out there. Ive been bowhunting for 35 years and I've never cared for the jacknife expandables. With that being said I started shooting Rage 10 years ago and they have been amazing for me, countless kills, zero failures and 100 % recovery rate. The Hypodermics are the best one to date imo.

What's the cost $ for Muzzy 3 blade that works? What's the cost ($$$) for other broadheads that may or may not work?

Fixed head there is nothing to "not work" other than shot placement!

So at the root of my question is that I'm probably changing bows. Will be going to a faster bow, shorter axle to axle. Now it probably won't be much different, but I'm thinking I'll go from the 280's to the 310's. Do fixed heads tend to plane at those higher speeds? How important is it to "tune" the heads to the fletchings?

3 blade Muzzy. 100 or 125 grain. I've shot them in compounds and now crossbows. Just not much negative about them.

Dont know if this helps or not but; I started bow hunting this year with a bow that was rated at 316 fps, I was shooting the 3 blade Muzzy trocar fixed blade and there was no difference between them and a field point. When I upgraded to a faster bow(355 fps) they were flying differently and I had to tune the broad heads to the arrow.

Muzzy have a bad reputation for having to really tune them. I have just paper tuned bows and my slick tricks fly the same as fp. I think people get away with bows thst are not properly tuned by shooting mechanicals but even then your bow is not achieving it's maximum capabilities. Do yourself a favor and buy some slick tricks and than me later. To answer your question though. I shot a speed bow for a year...hated the draw cycle but bought it for cheap. Was shooting 308fps and slick tricks shot perfectly out of it with no problem just like they did out off the bow before that that was shooting in the 270s. Bow I just got rid of shot 286 and shot them perfect. I have not had a bow that required knats butt detail tuning for tricks.

Said for years I would never shoot a mechanical head because of the chance of failure. My FIL and another friend of mine shoot professionally and kept talking about Grim Reapers so I said what the heck and gave them a shot. That was about 5 years ago and have been shooting them ever since. No problems what so ever for me, unbelievable blood trails (if you need them) and complete pass thrus so far. Only 1 deer made it out of sight and it only made it about 40yd. Biggest deer I've shot with them was 220lb 9pt in Missouri. Blew thru him and stuck up 6"in the ground. Tried the 2" whitetail specials by reaper but blades seem to break too easy, really like the 1 3/8 cut the best. That's my $0.02

I shoot Grim Reapers and Rage. Hard to beat either. As a matter of fact, I have a Reaper Razor Tip nocked right now!

Thunderhead 125's for me. Killed a few elk and have zero complaints. Mechanicals here are illegal and I probably wouldn't change if they were.