|
|
|
|
|
|
1
|
2
|
3
|
4
|
5
|
6
|
7
|
8
|
9
|
10
|
11
|
12
|
13
|
14
|
15
|
16
|
17
|
18
|
19
|
20
|
21
|
22
|
23
|
24
|
25
|
26
|
27
|
28
|
29
|
30
|
31
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
121 registered members (klay, jwalker77, Whiskey9, dirtwrk, Drycreek, Holcomb, centralala, COOTER, Chad Burnette, donia, Rockhound, roosterbob, Bows4evr, cartervj, BGR, geeb1, DThrash, timberwolfe, hunterturf, TurkeyJoe, Safetyman, AlabamaSwamper, JHL, Xbow, JohnG, Davyalabama, stuball, brushwhacker, Joe4majors, Teacher One, MS_Hunter, furnfeather, CouchNapper, AWT6, RidgeRanger, !shiloh!, BrentsFX4, Dean, Bull64, Mjh97, RareBreed, georgiaboy1970, Turkeyneck78, mathews prostaff, Sus scrofa Reduction Specialist, TEM, RSmith, Young20, XVIII, OutdoorsAL, BAR1225, 7PTSPREAD, Ten37, outdoorguy88, Turkey, sj22, RebFormanUDA, AUdeerhunter, CNC, trlrdrdave, trailertrash, BigA47, jlbuc10, Big AL 76, JEM270, MikeP, CKyleC, PossumPecker, fur_n_feathers, bhammedic84, quailman, Paint Rock 00, doghouse, Bmyers142, BCLC, 2 ducks, dave260rem!, Nicholas5138, Jwbfx4, icducks, ronfromramer, Bustinbeards, fish_blackbass, Mdees, Bulls eye, 3blades, Tree Dweller, BentBarrel, HURRICANE, JA, Chiller, HappyHunter, coach2, mossyback, Morris, 3006bullet, demp17, scrubbuck, cullbuck, FX4, YB21, Chaser357, slanddeerhunter, Bruno, Showout, BamaGuitarDude, jhardy, Geeb, btfl, Tree Hanger, rrice0725, 10 invisible),
678
guests, and 0
spiders. |
Key:
Admin,
Global Mod,
Mod
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: joeml18]
#2808218
05/15/19 10:23 PM
05/15/19 10:23 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890 Awbarn, AL
CNC
OP
Dances With Weeds
|
OP
Dances With Weeds
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890
Awbarn, AL
|
Hey CNC, got a question for you. We put our I&C peas this weekend and I was able to convince the other guys to give me one plot to try the throw and mow method in. It went great. Ended up running the cultipacker over it instead of mowing it. Question is, will it be possible to plant this plot in the fall using the throw and mow method? I don't see any possibility of getting the same thatch layer from the peas as we did with the wheat/rye from our fall planting. I know that is a question with a lot of variables. Thanks. I agree with what others have said....once the deer wipe out the beans then you'll likely have plenty of native forbs and grasses come in if your soil is fertile. The amount and native forage you grow during the summer is a pretty good indication as to your fields fertility. A good fertile field with nutrients in check will grow all the biomass summer you need through the native plant community. This part of the answer is for you and Cal as well.....The easiest thing to do to produce plenty of summer biomass is to get your soil nutrients in line such as Ca, P, & K.....hit it with a dose or two of N throughout the summer if needed.....and allow the native plants to do their thing.....they will produce plenty of biomass for you as well as repairing the soil in the process with their root growth. The deer will still use the fields, picking and choosing the plants they like. I haven't done squat to my field this year but I still have deer out here browsing in it every night. The soil is fertile and the plant community is very diverse. There's probably 25-30+ different plant species growing in and around the edge of my field. Species composition will change as fertility increases and organic matter builds. Seven or eight years ago my field was nearly pure crabgrass during the summer due to the degraded conditions.
Last edited by CNC; 05/15/19 10:36 PM.
We dont rent pigs
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2808508
05/16/19 11:32 AM
05/16/19 11:32 AM
|
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 656 SW Alabama
ALFisher
4 point
|
4 point
Joined: Apr 2014
Posts: 656
SW Alabama
|
I'm going to slightly modify what I said and add a caveat to CNC's comment. You have to pay attention to what CNC said, which is "if your soil is fertile." I've found that if your soil is bad, as in sandy or sandy loam like a lot of Alabama soils, then, you are going to have a hard time in year one getting summer growth that worth a darn. I'd strongly recommend something grassy like millet. Grows just about everywhere and produces lots of biomass. At the same time, hit it with lime. If you haven't done a soil test and you aren't in the black belt, I'd hit it with a ton of ag lime per acre.
If you want tons of biomass for the fall, plant rye and crimson clover the following fall. deer aren't as big of eaters of rye where I am, but it makes some serious biomass, and I was willing to trade that off in my food plots with the worst soil. Year two, I planted wheat, oats and rye, with crimson, arrow leaf, and rape and some turnips. All did well.
So in my five T&M plots now, I rotate WMS pea patch, then in the fall wheat, oats rye (heavy on wheat), crimson, arrow leaf, rape and turnips. Just 1lb an acre on turnips, though. Those buggers are expensive!!
Last edited by ALFisher; 05/16/19 11:33 AM.
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2808732
05/16/19 04:45 PM
05/16/19 04:45 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890 Awbarn, AL
CNC
OP
Dances With Weeds
|
OP
Dances With Weeds
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890
Awbarn, AL
|
AlFisher is spot on...….millet is an excellent choice if you're struggling to grow natural vegetation.
Last edited by CNC; 05/16/19 04:45 PM.
We dont rent pigs
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2808833
05/16/19 08:07 PM
05/16/19 08:07 PM
|
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 857 Land of dixie
Rockhound
6 point
|
6 point
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 857
Land of dixie
|
Hey CNC, got a question for you. We put our I&C peas this weekend and I was able to convince the other guys to give me one plot to try the throw and mow method in. It went great. Ended up running the cultipacker over it instead of mowing it. Question is, will it be possible to plant this plot in the fall using the throw and mow method? I don't see any possibility of getting the same thatch layer from the peas as we did with the wheat/rye from our fall planting. I know that is a question with a lot of variables. Thanks. I agree with what others have said....once the deer wipe out the beans then you'll likely have plenty of native forbs and grasses come in if your soil is fertile. The amount and native forage you grow during the summer is a pretty good indication as to your fields fertility. A good fertile field with nutrients in check will grow all the biomass summer you need through the native plant community. This part of the answer is for you and Cal as well.....The easiest thing to do to produce plenty of summer biomass is to get your soil nutrients in line such as Ca, P, & K.....hit it with a dose or two of N throughout the summer if needed.....and allow the native plants to do their thing.....they will produce plenty of biomass for you as well as repairing the soil in the process with their root growth. The deer will still use the fields, picking and choosing the plants they like. I haven't done squat to my field this year but I still have deer out here browsing in it every night. The soil is fertile and the plant community is very diverse. There's probably 25-30+ different plant species growing in and around the edge of my field. Species composition will change as fertility increases and organic matter builds. Seven or eight years ago my field was nearly pure crabgrass during the summer due to the degraded conditions. It is simply amazing to watch a field totally change every couple of years, I've got one that started out as BlackBerry, ragweed, broomsedge, and poplar seedlings, I bushhog it 2 or 3 times every summer and it literally seems to change every year.
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: Rockhound]
#2808883
05/16/19 09:02 PM
05/16/19 09:02 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890 Awbarn, AL
CNC
OP
Dances With Weeds
|
OP
Dances With Weeds
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890
Awbarn, AL
|
It is simply amazing to watch a field totally change every couple of years, I've got one that started out as BlackBerry, ragweed, broomsedge, and poplar seedlings, I bushhog it 2 or 3 times every summer and it literally seems to change every year.
There's a lot of factors that can effect species composition as well. Mowing..... timing of the mowing....and frequency of mowing can all have an impact on species composition. Frequent mowing tends to favor grass species and thin out broadleafs.
We dont rent pigs
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2813420
05/22/19 10:13 PM
05/22/19 10:13 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890 Awbarn, AL
CNC
OP
Dances With Weeds
|
OP
Dances With Weeds
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890
Awbarn, AL
|
Nice!.....I think the standing grain crops really help the clover from going dormant as easily. It helps hold in the soil moisture and also provides it will a little semi-shade. .
We dont rent pigs
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: Steiner]
#2817570
05/29/19 06:43 AM
05/29/19 06:43 AM
|
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,458 South Alabama
bambam32
8 point
|
8 point
Joined: Jul 2014
Posts: 1,458
South Alabama
|
I have a question for those that use the throw and mow method but also include the spraying step. Last year we changed over to the throw and mow method. It really didn't work very well and the primary reason was because we had way too much natural grasses that did not terminate when we mowed. The native grasses utilized a large portion of the fertilizer before the 3-way mix (wheat, oat and rye) ever got established. Also since the native grasses were very thick the 3-way mix had a difficult time competing.
Our plan this year is to also spray and this is were my question comes. For those that typically spray, is there a better time to spray relative to your planting date? Three weeks prior, two weeks prior, one week prior, or the day you plant.
Thanks for the feedback.... We do 2-3 weeks. This gives you time to see if you missed a spot. It’s easy to miss a strip if you are using an ATV to spray.
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2817908
05/29/19 02:36 PM
05/29/19 02:36 PM
|
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890 Awbarn, AL
CNC
OP
Dances With Weeds
|
OP
Dances With Weeds
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 24,890
Awbarn, AL
|
If you've got a really thick stand of grass to kill then it wouldn't hurt to start a month ahead of time. That'll give it a little time to start breaking down and maybe thinning out before you plant. Long term I'd start looking to thin the grass component down some in the summer so that you get a better mix of broadleaf plants. Ideally we would like to have a balance of grasses, broadleafs, and legumes.
Last edited by CNC; 05/29/19 02:36 PM.
We dont rent pigs
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2818122
05/29/19 08:27 PM
05/29/19 08:27 PM
|
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38,489 N. Bama
257wbymag
Boo Boo Head
|
Boo Boo Head
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 38,489
N. Bama
|
It’s a good one. The Krause landmaster is even better. Will flat slick some ground down
Quietly killing turkeys where youre not!!! My tank full of give a fraks been runnin on empty I'm the paterfamilias
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: CNC]
#2818387
05/30/19 09:02 AM
05/30/19 09:02 AM
|
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,911 huntin the big lease
Turkeymaster
8 point
|
8 point
Joined: Jan 2014
Posts: 1,911
huntin the big lease
|
T&M is easier but discing a field is instant gratification when it breaks up real good
"All is fair in love, War and Turkey Hunting"
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: Turkeymaster]
#2818419
05/30/19 09:50 AM
05/30/19 09:50 AM
|
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,593 Trussville
toothdoc
14 point
|
14 point
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 9,593
Trussville
|
T&M is easier but discing a field is instant gratification when it breaks up real good I'm sold on T&M, but I love the smell and feel of that dirt in my hands.
|
|
|
Re: Throw n Mow Q&A
[Re: toothdoc]
#2818567
05/30/19 01:34 PM
05/30/19 01:34 PM
|
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 22,079 USA
Remington270
Freak of Nature
|
Freak of Nature
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 22,079
USA
|
T&M is easier but discing a field is instant gratification when it breaks up real good I'm sold on T&M, but I love the smell and feel of that dirt in my hands. I agree. I haven't broken any dirt in over a year now. Barely did any last year. Results are so good, and it's so much easier, I'll never go back.
|
|
|
|