John all you have to do is use quick links so when you’re ready to remove your trap just detach the link
I do this in most places I trap bc I know I’ll be putting a set in that same spot next season and the anchor is already in place

Tdog, I'm sorry about your mom. Yes, that is a very very hard decision to make. They have lived all their life in a place they call home and then having to go to a completely different place to stay is very unsettling and scary for them. I do understand and will keep y'all in my thoughts and prayers.

I did get the stake driver and the 3 in 1 hammer to go with it. All Fleming had in stock were the Berkshire hard dirt anchors with 15 inch chains so I just got those.
Deadeye, I did get a dozen quick links too.
As far as the wax, the guy at Fleming said to clean and decrease the traps first. Rinse them and let dry outside to get a very slight layer of rust on the traps. They had a cold dip that mixes up in a 5 gallon bucket and he said the leave the traps submerged in the dip for 3 to 4 days then hang them up to let them dry for a few days. He was telling me the dip will work well without having to wax them. I guess I'll see about that,lol.

Here's the deal with where I go in Forkland....I'll go down for 2-3 days max then have to come back to Bham.It may be a month before the next time I get to go back. Would you just leave the anchors in the ground down there or dig them up and bring back with you for next time? They are not that expensive but I may not recall the exact spot I was at. Which leads to the next question... do you mark your spot or a close by tree with a marking ribbon or something to help you know where the anchors are? I'll be bringing the traps back with me for sure.
Appreciate you guys!!!

I will send up prayers for your MIL. One option that works well for removing anchors is using your drill and auger to drill down beside the chain. Usually makes quick work getting your anchor out. Also makes putting in a dirt hole very easy as well so I would recommend the auger.

I'm also wondering about when you bait your hole. I see on some videos that guys use lambs wool or something put down the hole then put the bait on that but lots of guys just smear about a small spoonful of bait directly into the hole. What's your way that works for you and how far down the hole are you putting the bait? I've got both bait and lure along with a bottle of urine coming. Maybe use just a few drops of urine outside but in front of the bait hole, maybe putting a small log or branch in the ground for the urine? As you can tell...me got lots of questions

That makes sense to me, thank you !!

The reason for the quick links is so you can leave the anchors in the ground if you’re going to use that site again and if not the drill auger works well for removing them
There’s plenty of experience with all these guy so ask anything you need to know
One bit of advice……don’t over complicate trapping with things you don’t need or need to do

I use sheep's wool and bait. I think the sheep's wool adds an extra smell and when they are looking in the hole they can see a little of it. I usually push the wool/bait down the hole at least half way or 3/4 of the way. I have been using bait in the hole and a lure, a few drops behind the hole and some fox urine squirted around the back of the hole.

If I find some coyote scat I may add some of that around the hole as well. As has been said before, bedding the trap so it doesn't move is probably the most important aspect as well as choosing a good location.

Good-luck, I hope you are successful early because once you trap a coyote it makes all the effort worth it.

Lots of good videos out there, I like some of these videos, not sure they were mentioned:

https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC8SgJmxNt-YPv2L5QHu4-nw


https://www.youtube.com/user/HoosierTrapperSupply/videos

Really appreciate the comments John - nursing home has been tuffer adjustment than I expected and I did not think it would b easy
Another tip - u need 2 sets of gloves - one for baiting and one for setting trap

I put my pee a few inches behind the hole and I use multiple lure - put some on wool and some inch r so behind hole - I don’t mix lure and pee r put in same spot

And the reason for the 2 sets gloves - if u use 1 set and bait with them - they will start smelling like bait and animals will dig up your trap caise your trap now smells like bait

Sometimes mice will steal your wool from the dirt holes. Also, understand that when using urine deer, hogs and cows will investigate your sets.

I am blessed to not hav to deal w hogs

I’m Fixin to boil my traps and tools since they are all new. I’ve been told to wait on dying until later. I didn’t buy any wax, so can I wait on that til later also? I’ve got several yotes and I’m off the rest of the week.

I’d go ahead and have them ready so all you have to do is get them in the ground when the time comes

If I can set them without dying and waxing I’ll set them tomorrow or Thursday right after the rain

Here's yet another question for you fine dog catching gurus..after a day or few days of rain, how do you determine if the ground is still too wet to make your sets? Just curious..?

If you have a 5 gallon bucket full of dry dirt you won’t have to concern yourself about the ground being wet or too wet bc the dry dirt will allow you to remake your sets

Another question on the dye pack it says to use degreaser when boiling. Should I do that or just boil

Degrease they traps first
Use vinegar to start rusting process
After rusting has coated the traps then put in the boiling dye

We’ll at least I know how to set a trap. Caught a possum.

Hey, well congrats on that, its a start !! What trap did you end up getting?